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The Buddy's Five Star Rating System
...and what we look for in a climbing wall.


What we look at: As well as providing the usual information for a climbing wall such as the size and number of routes, their grades (where these are available!), opening hours etc we will also give our opinion on the overall assessment of the climbing wall giving each a star rating from zero to five (some climbing walls may not have a star rating – this may be because they don’t deserve one, in which case we will say so giving them a zero rating, or it may simply be that we have not graded them yet).










The stars will be awarded based on an overall view of the centre. The assessment will be based on the following criteria:




 
No Stars
=
Not Assessed
 
1 Star
1 Star
=
Poor
Not worth a visit
2 Star
2 Star
=
Average
Worth a visit but don’t expect much
3 Star
3 Star
=
Good
Worth a visit if you are in the area
4 Star
4 Star
=
Very Good
Definitely worth a visit
5 Star
5 Star
=
Excellent
A must do – 
well worth travelling to


      The Routes:
         •   How tall are they?
         •   How many are there?
         •   What range of grades do they cover?
         •   Are the grades clearly marked?
         •   How often are the routes changed?
         •   What is provided (ie ropes, anchor points or quick draws)?
         •   Is the wall suitable for lead climbing?
         •   Are there overhangs?
         •   Is there a bouldering wall? What size and what grades?
         •   Is there a traverse wall? What size and what grades?
         •   Are there auto belays and how many?

      The Management:
         •   Is it run by climbers for climbers?
         •   How friendly and helpful are the staff?
         •   How busy is the centre?
         •   Is it part of a larger complex like a leisure centre?
         •   Do you require membership and how much is it?
         •   What does it cost to climb?
         •   Is there a competency test (written/verbal)?
         •   What is the booking in procedure?
         •   Is there a system for arranging climbing partners?
         •   Do they run competitions?
         •   How do you contact them?
         •   Do they have a web site?
         •   Are they members of the ABC
                 (Association of British Climbing Centres)?

      The Facilities:
         •    What are the opening hours?
         •    Is it always open to the public?
         •    Where is it and how do you find it?
         •    What is parking like?
         •    Is there a cafι or even a bar?
         •    Are there lockers and do they lock?
         •    Is there a spectator area?
         •    Are there areas for climbers to relax?
         •    What are the toilets like?
         •    Is there a shop, what does it sell and what is it like?
         •    How is the wall constructed and who built it?

      Who is Welcome:
         •    Can you climb if you are a novice?
         •    Can you use the bouldering wall if you are a novice?
         •    Are groups welcome?
         •    Could you hold a kids birthday party there?

       Instructors and Courses:
         •    Are there course for novices?
         •    Are there courses for advanced climbers?
         •    Is supervision available for groups?
         •    How many instructors are there (full time, freelance, SPA, etc)?
         •    Can SPA and MIA holders take their own groups?


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